Apr
14
A little purple acrylic pouring piece.

This was a little piece I am working on for a friend of mine.  It will be the background but the creation of this part is always exciting! Hope you enjoy!

Materials Used: Custom 8-inch wood panel (I make these myself)

Paints:
All Golden Fluid Acrylic
Titanium White – https://amzn.to/2JMLyHA
Iridescent Pearl Fine – https://amzn.to/2EM5Ayf
Dioxazine Purple – https://amzn.to/2ELTK7p
Quinacridone Violet – https://amzn.to/2H1DVj2

Pouring Medium:
Flotrol – https://amzn.to/2vjBYJm
GAC 800 – https://amzn.to/2HC9XyU
Alcohol – 91% – https://amzn.to/2EIuQWl

Dispersion Agent:
Cutting Board Oil – https://amzn.to/2JMkvwr

Resin Coating:
https://amzn.to/2ELEDe7

 

Mix your paints in separate cups. The colors are all tints, so they are set at a 1:1 ration with white.

1 part White to 1 part Pearl
1 part purple to 1 part white
1 part violet to 1 part white

Mixing the Fluid Medium

I add about three parts floetrol to 1 part GAC. Make sure to strain the floetrol, so there are no chunks. After the floetrol is strained mix it well then let it sit for about 30 minutes. This will eliminate any bubbles created by the mixing.

Putting it together:
Add your pouring medium to your paint. Keep in mind the floetrol, and gac dries translucent so the colors will look a little dull. This will change as it dries. Once you have the paints mixed, add a few drops of alcohol and mix well.

I mixed these colors in a “dirty cup.” As I added paint, I dropped in 1 drop of oil to help disperse the paints.

Pour it on and let it go. Let the paint dry for a couple of days. Then you can add any coating you like. I added resin as a top coat.

Thanks for watching.

Jul
08
Trying New Things with Acrylic Pouring and isolating colors.

At times I will be thinking of something regarding technique.  The other day I was playing with some water color paints and had an idea about layering colors with cookie cutters.  Now I have done this in a video of which is linked below, but this time I was thinking more along the lines of using cookie cutters to create cells of cells.  Or clusters of cells.   While the idea worked somewhat, I was not super happy with the colors.  I could see this being utilized more on a huge piece, which I may try soon.  Either way, the process fun and I always learn something even if I didn’t like the end results. Below is more information about the recipe and the paints I used. 

 

Here are the paints that I used along with the other additives.   To see the original video of the “No flip cup flip cup” please click here: https://youtu.be/act_BluG7tk 

For the recipe I pretty much stuck the recipe in the video linked here.  http://dannyclarkart.net/another-alternative-to-pouring-medium/

Liquitex Basics Acrylic Paint 118ml-Primary Yellow – http://amzn.to/2srDQdf
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Cerulean Blue Hue http://amzn.to/2uMo6SA
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Titanium White – http://amzn.to/2tTk3r8
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Red Oxide – http://amzn.to/2tSVI4X
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint 4-oz tube, Bright Aqua Green – http://amzn.to/2ss77Eg
Flood Floetrol – http://amzn.to/2srKrEj
B’laster 16-SL Industrial Strength Silicone Lubricant – 11-Ounces – http://amzn.to/2tT7dcO

Jun
24
Is using silicone really better? Do we really have to torch? Comparing two low cost acrylic pour techniques using Folk Art Brand Paint with and without silicone and no dangerous torching!

I often get asked if I can show how I would create a painting using less expensive craft paints.  Last week I did a demonstration using Anita’s All Purpose Acrylic Paints.  These were inexpensive and easy to use.  I had some beautiful results, and after finishing the piece off with epoxy resin, it was spot on.  This week I am trying out Folk Art Paints by PLAID.

PLAID makes a lot of excellent craft products from Mod Podge to glues to different craft paints like the Folk Art and Apple Barrel.  According to their website, the Apple Barrel and Folk Art paints are UV stable and stay true indoors and outdoors.  I sent a request for more information regarding how light fast the paint is and below is what they responded to me with:

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thank you for your inquiry. FolkArt Acrylic Colors and FolkArt Outdoor Paint
Pigments have been rated highly resistant to fading.

Paints are rated on a light-fastness scale that runs from 1 to 5.

1=Excellent
2=Very good
3=Good
4=Fair
5=Poor

All of the FolkArt Acrylic Colors and FolkArt Outdoor Paints are rated Excellent or
Very Good (1 or 2). These paints are made from some of the purest pigment available,
which results in its superior quality.
Unfortunately, FolkArt Paints do not contain any U/V inhibitors.
Thank you for contacting Plaid,

EP

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

In addition to the paints I am often asked if torching a paint is really necessary.  Well, I am in no place to decide what an artist does to create their work so I can’t really say what is necessary.  The two pours done in the video are both excluding a torch.  There are times when I will try it but in most cases I don’t torch simply because I don’t want to torch.

For the video attached, I did two different pours.  The first pour was a request to use one of my recipes using Floetrol, paint, alcohol, and silicone.  I did this painting with no intention of torching the paint as I wanted to show how you can get an overload of cells without adding heat to the paint.  The second pour is using one of my recipes that I use a lot.  The recipe used was simply Floetrol, Paint, and alcohol.  Both give unique results, and it is really up to the artist to decide what they like.   Below I have a list of the products I used as well as the recipes I used to create them.  Both of these pieces are available on my Etsy page which supports the YouTube channel.

Recipe 1 – 6X6 Square Panel (These panels I create myself)

  • 25ml Floetrol
  • 15ml  paint
  • 5ml 91% alcohol
  • A spray of silicone in each color then stirred.

For this recipe, I used these measurements for each color.  The total amount of fluid was roughly 200ml or almost 1 cup of paint.  Additionally, I added one last spray of silicone to the top of the dirty cup before flipping it over. I wanted this painting to have a TON of cells.

Recipe 2 – 10 inch circular panel. (These panels I also create and are available on my etsy page)

  • 25ml Floetrol
  • 15ml  paint
  • 5ml 91% alcohol

This recipe is fairly straight forward.  One tip is to add your alcohol last as it will evaporate quickly. It also seems to work a little better if the paint is poured out rather than flipped.  I like the look of ribbons and smaller cells.  They tend to give more of a planetary look than a organism look.

Materials Used:

These two pieces are available to purchase on my Etsy page – https://www.etsy.com/shop/DannyClarkArt

May
14
Acrylic Pour Painting A Letter W For WHITNEY! Three Cup Dirty Pour Technique.

After my girl Zoe and I painted her letter my oldest Whitney was ready to work on her letter.  Just like the last pour with Zoe we did a three cup pour for the letter W.  The results were pretty cool and as it dries we like it more an more.  Once the piece has fully dried we will post images to this blog.  So be sure to come back in a couple of days to see how it looks dried.

For the recipe we did the following in each cup:

2 ounces Flood Floetrol
10 mls of alcohol
20 mls of paint

The paints were added to three separate cups and then poured over the canvas.  Very little was done to manipulate the panel.  Below is a list of the ingredients we used:

May
12
Acrylic Pour Painting A Letter Z For ZOE! Three Cup Dirty Pour Technique.

Tonight my youngest Zoe and I found these cools panel letters and decided we would do one for her room.  Because of the shape of the letter we decided to do a three cup dirty pour.  The results were pretty cool and as it dries we like it more an more.  Once the piece has fully dried we will post images to this blog.  So be sure to come back in a couple of days to see how it looks dried.

For the recipe we did the following in each cup:

2 ounces Flood Floetrol
10 mls of alcohol
20 mls of paint

The paints were added to three separate cups and then poured over the canvas.  Very little was done to manipulate the panel.  Below is a list of the ingredients we used:

May
08
The Effect of a No Flip – Flip Cup Acrylic Pouring Technique

Lately, I have been working on the way to get a lot of paint on a large panel without actually pouring the paint. Mainly I wanted to do a flip cup in multiple places. Well, I think I have found the solution, and I wanted to share the technique.

In the video, I use biscuit cutters to pool the paint up and create the dirty pour. The difference is that I placed my lightest colors first in the cup so they would have a chance to move around. I think this will work best on a large panel, but we will have to see later. Once the painting has dried, I will post the finished piece here in this blog, so you know what the results. If you want to try this for yourself I have listed all the products used below:

Products Used:

May
06
Creating Cells with Color Shift Paints in an Acrylic Pour.

This weekend Zoe and I have been playing with some new paint.  Last night we made a piece using Color Shift Paints and we rather liked the results.  So today we thought we would share with our YouTube Channel how we did the pour.  The receipe we used was rather simple.

In each cup add the following:

  • 2 Parts Paint
  • 2 Parts GAC 800
  • 1 Part 91% Alcohol.
  • 5 to 10 drops silicone

People have asked why I use alcohol and it is really just preference.  You can use water I just know that the alcohol works for me and I like it.  Additionally the alcohol can help act as a dispersing agent with the silicone. Once these pieces have dried and we have coated them in resin Zoe wants to put them on my Etsy page.  Of course they won’t be $2500 like she asked but they will be for sale.

Below is a list of the products we used with links to where they can be purchased:

 

May
04
Without using silicone, alcohol or water we created plenty of cells in an acrylic pour.

I have really enjoyed using Floetrol as a pouring medium.  It seems to do a pretty good job and stands up well under resin.  One thing I have noticed is that floetrol over older paint is not as forgiving.  In this video Zoe and I do a quick demo of an acrylic pour only using Golden Fluid Acrylic and Floetrol.

The recipe was pretty simple.  I used 1 ounce of floetrol to about 20 drops of fluid acrylic.  Below is a list of the items we used in the demonstration.

May
03
Triple Pour with Lots of Cells – Latest Video.

This weekend I tried something a little different with my test canvases. I did a dirty pour with three flip cups, and I think it turned out OK. Below is a video from my YouTube channel with all the details. Additionally, I coated the piece in Art Resin.

 

Eventually, the piece will be available on my Etsy Page that I was finally able to setup. I am busy with so much other that stuff it seems like I am moving in slow motion. The Etsy shop is pretty much where these little test pieces reside. Otherwise, they collect dust in my house. So check it out and buy something will ya!

https://www.etsy.com/shop/DannyClarkArt

As always here is a list of the ingredients I used to create this piece. I hope this inspires you to try it out. It’s not hard just sometimes messy!

Floetrol — http://amzn.to/2qqusJ7
Silicone — http://amzn.to/2qwgceR
91% Alcohol – http://amzn.to/2qws7cq
Golden Hansa Yellow Medium – http://amzn.to/2qCBh6B
Golden Titan Buff – http://amzn.to/2pW7eKM
Golden Raw Umber – http://amzn.to/2p6JUWH
Golden Quinacridone Magenta – http://amzn.to/2qCF3g6
Golden Cerulean Blue – http://amzn.to/2pGdYLV
Art Resin – http://amzn.to/2p3SdSn

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